Delta Delights

Rich farmland, recreational waterways and scenic highways dominate Northeast Louisiana. This side of the Delta still lays claim to unspoiled and undeveloped backroads that take modern day explorers back in time. It's all about Southern tradition in this neck of the Great Southern Pine Forest, where many of the go-to eateries have been in continuous operation for at least a half-century. Grab a map and head off to discover one of the nearby rural treasures within an hour's drive of Monroe/West Monroe. Slow down, relax, and enjoy a perfectly seasoned Southern dish -- from frog legs to fricassée -- prepared from a distinctive recipe passed down for generations.

In Ruston, at the Blue Light Cafe (902 Arlington St., Ruston; 318-513-2230) you'll chow down on hearty helpings of gravy-smothered steak, pork chops, fried chicken, vegetables, and cornbread. The folks in this town are serious about their barbecue, and Dowling's Smokehouse (1313 Cooktown Rd., Ruston; 318-513-9966) keeps them coming back for dry-rubbed ribs, pulled pork, beef brisket, chicken, and sausage. Their claim to fame is a scatterload sandwich smothered with cheese and a little bit of chopped everything, served piping hot on sourdough, wheat, or jalapeno cheese bread. Sundown Tavern Patio & Grill (111 E. Park Ave., Ruston; 318-255-8028), boasts the best burgers in town, along with homemade French fries. Enjoy a cold drink and an afternoon round of Jeopardy on the outdoor patio. And things get even sweeter in June during the annual Louisiana Peach Festival (http://www.louisianapeachfestival.org) celebrating the juicy fruit hailing from the rolling hills of Ruston.

Take a bit of Ruston back home to share: Mitcham Farms (1007 Woods Rd., Ruston; 318-255-3409; http://www.mitchamfarms.com) boasts the largest peach orchard in Louisiana. Mitcham's sells hand-picked fruit and a full line of preserves, cobblers, sauces, and dessert mixes, or sample locally made cheese at the Louisiana Tech Farm Salesroom (West California/Hull Ave., Ruston; 318-257-3550; http://www.latech.edu/farm/farmsales/dairy), which sells products from the school's working dairy on the edge of campus. Don't miss the velvety peach ice cream.

Head east to Monroe and West Monroe, on opposite banks of the Ouachita River. First stop: West Monroe Farmers Market (1700 N. 7th St., West Monroe; 318-322-2203) for local honey, fruits, and vegetables. Then go for some messy-good eatin' at Gabbeaux's Bayles Landing (113 S. Riverfront St., West Monroe; 318-322-8278; http://www.gabbeauxs.com). This spot on the river has crawfish by the bucket. Start with a plate of fresh oysters on the half shell and eat them on saltines with a dollop of cocktail sauce.

Enjoy the view as you cross the Louisville bridge on your way to Warehouse No. 1 Restaurant (1 Olive St., Monroe; 318-322-1340; http://www.warehouseno1.com). Dine on corn and crab bisque, prime steaks, or citrus-grilled tuna salad in an historic but urban atmosphere overlooking the river. At Mohawk Seafood Tavern Restaurant (704 Louisville Ave., Monroe; 318-322-5481) gumbo, fried shrimp, and shrimp delight salad come with a quiet atmosphere. Another picturesque view is at Waterfront Grill (5201 DeSiard St., Monroe; 318-345-0064; http://www.waterfrontgrill.com) alongside Bayou DeSiard. Feast on grilled Black Angus steaks or Catfish DeSiard. The Cascio family has been feeding folks at Cascio's Italian & Cajun Eatery (305 Finks Hideaway Rd., Monroe; 318-345-4536) for more than 40 years. For lunch, split an olivey-good muffaletta. Or hold out for home cooking at Big Momma's Fine Foods (1118 S. 2nd St., Monroe; 318-388-5678). Plate lunches feature fried chicken, smothered steak, chicken and dumplings, butter beans, turnip greens, and candied yams. The hot-water cornbread melts in your mouth.

Northwest from Monroe, in Epps, visit Poverty Point (318-926-5492; http://www.nps.gov/popo), some of the largest prehistoric earth works in North America. If you'd like to catch and prepare your own dinner, Poverty Point State Park Marina provides fish cleaning stations at each launch area. If you'd rather someone else do the work, the Waterfront Grill at Black Bear Golf Course (253 Black Bear Dr., Delhi; 318-878-5941; http://www.waterfrontgrill.com) offers a healthy approach to catfish and seafood with grilled specialties. If a downhome burger is more your style, The Handy House Restaurant (131 Snider Rd., Delhi; 318-878-9385) lays claim to "the best burgers in North Louisiana." Hot home-style lunches are also served with fresh vegetables on the side.

Beautifully preserved antebellum homes dot the countryside on the way to Winnsboro, the original home of local chain Johnny's Pizza (6770 Kinloch St., Winnsboro; 318-435-3731; http://www.johnnys-pizza.com). Order their Sweep the Swamp, loaded with shrimp, crawfish, andouille sausage, crab, bell peppers, onions, and jalapenos.

Along the mighty Mississippi in Vidalia is Sandbar Restaurant (106 Carter St., Vidalia; 318-336-5173), where first-rate fried catfish and seafood platters are served at thick pine tables.

Ducks Nest II (4273 Hwy. 568, Ferriday; 318-757-2990), located on one of the many oxbow lakes formed by the Mississippi River, is a fitting tribute to the early trappers that settled the region. Order the Catfish Spokecane, a thin-cut fried catfish topped with a delectable crawfish sauce. Afterward, stroll the fishing docks and take a quick ride to the Delta Music Museum (218 Louisiana Ave., Ferriday; 318-757-9999), which pays tribute to native Jerry Lee Lewis. By now, you'll be yearning for a glimpse of the plantations of yesteryear, and 1,800-acre Frogmore Plantation (11054 Hwy. 84, Frogmore; 318-757-2453; http://www.frogmoreplantation.com) has cotton fields and 18 restored antebellum structures. A Frogmore descendant fires up the outdoor oven for bread and hoecake demonstrations.

End the trail on an energetic note in Enterprise. Jim Bowie's Relay Station (3642 Hwy. 124, Enterprise; 318-744-9999; http://www.jimbowiesrelaystation.com), open only on Friday and Saturday evenings, features foot-stompin' roots music and country cabins where you can stay the night. Second helpings of gumbo, seafood, twice-baked potatoes, and homemade cobbler a la mode ensure sweet dreams.

Still hungry? Try the Prairie Home Cooking Trail or plan your own road trip online at LouisianaTravel.com/Culinary.