Trail Blog

October 11, 2010

Like a Local »  The inside scoop on gumbo.

Fall’s arrival means—at last—it’s gumbo weather! Here’s what you need to know about the state’s favorite soup. Plus: Six suggestions for where to order up a big bowl.

            Louisiana has adopted an official state drink (milk), an official state fruit (strawberry), and two official jellies (sugar cane and mayhaw). We don’t, however, have an official state soup—at least not yet—but if we did, our bet is it’d be gumbo. This staple of local cuisine is synonymous with the state, and the word “gumbo” is even used to describe Louisiana’s melting-pot culture.

            The specifics on the dish’s origins, unfortunately, are a little uncertain, but the name itself comes from the West African word for okra, “ki ngombo.” Okra was used as a thickener and some gumbo recipes still incorporate the pods. Filé powder, which is ground sassafras, is another ingredient traditionally used for thickening and flavor. Some add a dash of the powder at the table and some pass on the powder altogether.

            No two gumbo recipes are the same, and you’ll find regional differences, but most start with a roux base. “The trinity”— chopped onions, bell peppers and celery—are added, along with stock and seasonings. The two most popular kinds you’ll find dished out at local restaurants are chicken and sausage gumbo and seafood gumbo. Seafood gumbo might include any kind of combination of shrimp, crab, oysters, or crawfish. But there are countless variations. Some add duck or even steak or turkey. Gumbo z’herbes, or green gumbo, is made without meat, just greens and herbs, and is a Lenten favorite.

            No matter where you go and what kind you order up, one thing’s for sure: Gumbo is always served with a nice scoop of rice.

Gumbo Best Bets:

Louisiana Gumbo Festival: Held the third weekend of October in Chackbay, the Gumbo Festival serves more than 400 gallons over the course of three days. And, in this part of the state, the dish is often served with a scoop of potato salad in the bowl or on the side. www.lagumbofest.com

St. Augustine Church Fair: Each October, the fair is held in conjunction with the Natchitoches Fall Tour of Homes. Locals come here to buy their gumbo by the gallon. www.historicnatchitoches.com

Charley G’s: This longtime favorite in Lafayette serves a yummy smoked duck and andouille gumbo. www.charleygs.com

Dooky Chase: A New Orleans treasure. For a treat, try their gumbo z’herbes served on Holy Thursday. 504.821.0600

Seafood Palace: Locals love it for the flavor of their delicious dark roux. 337.433.9293

Prejean’s: Based in Lafayette, Prejean’s is known for award-winning gumbo and their pheasant, quail and andouille gumbo is a favorite at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. www.prejeans.com

If you want to learn how to make a great gumbo, sign up for “The Gumbo Workshop” coming up on November 10 at The Panhandler in Baton Rouge. Taught by David Gallent, the popular class fills quickly and covers everything from making the perfect roux to dealing with gumbo disasters. On November 11, Gallent teaches “Advanced Gumbo Techniques.” For details, visit www.thepanhandlerla.com.

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