Trail Blog
December 01, 2011
In the Kitchen With: Nic Hunter, Owner/Manager, Harlequin Steaks & Seafood
Lake Charles, LA
Q: The Harlequin has been in business since your grandparents opened it in 1956. Why do you think it's remained one of Lake Charles' favorite restaurants for more than 50 years?
A: We've always tried to stay true to our formula. We cut the best quality meat and try to bring out the natural flavors and unique characteristics of each steak. For those who do want a sauce or a topping, we accommodate them, but in my opinion, it's hard to beat the flavor of a well-prepared, well-seasoned piece of beef. Also, even though my grandmother, Mrs. Hunter, died in 2010, her legacy has and will always be my inspiration. I think when you start out with such a strong foundation and history as I have, it makes things much easier.
Q: It sounds like you essentially grew up in the restaurant business, first working there at the age of 12 and then taking over full time at the age of 17. How does a 17 year old handle such a position and how have you made your mark on the business?
A:It was a learning experience. Early sacrifices included social life, going off to college, the "party years" I guess you could say. I had to earn my stripes, especially with the older employees, some of whom had literally seen me in diapers. Now, I think they respect the legacy I have continued. As far as my own mark on the restaurant, I relocated the Harlequin in 2004 to our current location, which has had unbelievably positive effects on business. In addition to the relocation, [there’s been] a widening of the menu. We still focus on steaks, but our fresh, never frozen seafood selections have become extremely popular. Our "Off the Menu Features" probably focus on seafood 75 percent of the time, and I love experimenting with new flavors and ideas.
Q: I know your grandmother had an influence on you in the kitchen. What are some of your favorite food memories with her?
A: Very simple things...when she would make baked fudge at the house, she would always let me lick the spatula she used to mix the batter. And, I know this might sound a bit pedestrian, but one of my favorites was Velveeta Shells & Cheese. She would ALWAYS let me add the cheese.
Q: I've read where you said that Hurricane Rita forced you back into the kitchen to learn more. How so?
A: Everyone that could was roofing houses, putting up fences, or cleaning debris. My nice suits stayed in the closet for months. I went back to basics, washing dishes for the longest time, and then once you get in the kitchen, it's hard to get out, so I just stayed there, and it has been the best thing for my business. It forced me to understand the kitchen better. Whereas before I was 90 percent front-of-the-house; now, it is the complete opposite. Before Hurricane Rita, I would have been nervous to get on the grill on a busy weekend night. Now, it doesn't faze me at all.
Q: For someone dining at The Harlequin for the first time, what would you recommend they order—from appetizers to desserts?
A: The Trio of Crab for an appetizer (a sample of three of my grandmother's crab recipes, best eaten with crackers), a cup of our Creole tomato bisque with lump crab meat, the iceberg wedge salad with my grandmother's blue cheese dressing and plenty of fresh cracked pepper, a USDA Prime New York Strip Elite prepared medium rare with asparagus and hollandaise, and then of course my grandmother's bread pudding with lemon sauce. That meal should make anyone happy and satisfy any appetite.
Q: Tell us a little about your passion for Louisiana seafood and how you incorporate it into your menu?
A: This has been an evolving passion/hobby. I used to be strictly a steak man. The thought of ordering redfish or amberjack off a restaurant menu instead of a steak was something very foreign to me. I realized, however, that so many people enjoy steak more in moderation these days, and that is something we learned to cope with. I consider my printed menu to be something that won't change very much. I think it's kind of like going to Antoine's or Galatoire's and seeing basically the same thing you would have seen 20 years ago. Where we do incorporate different seafood specials is in our "Off the Menu Features." I check with my seafood suppliers literally daily to see what is in. Any fish that we can grill, we try to do that, because our grill is so seasoned with flavor. It adds such a new dimension to a filet of redfish or a tuna steak when you grill it. I try not to drown my fish with a sauce. Let the flavors of the fish stand out for themselves.
Q: When you have the chance to dine out at other Louisiana locally owned restaurants where do you go?
A: I enjoy my New Orleans trips. I think the most unfair question in the world is: "What is your favorite restaurant in New Orleans." I liken that to "Sophie's Choice"! In New Orleans, Clancy's, Stella, Herbsaint, La Petite Grocery, Galatoire's, Commander's Palace, & Dickie Brennan's are a few of my top favorites. I have a rule, though. On every trip to New Orleans, I MUST eat somewhere new! And I always follow that rule!
Q: We're so lucky to live in a place with amazing locally made/grown foods, from hot sauces to crawfish. If Santa were only to deliver Louisiana-made products to you this year, what would you hope to find under the tree?
A: First of all, it would have to be a BIG space under the tree, and let us also consider that Santa worked out some sort of refrigeration under the tree... crawfish tails, jumbo lump crab meat, redfish filets, grass-fed New York Strips (many local farmers are getting into this and I hope it catches on more with the retailer), Steen's Cane Syrup, Crystal Hot Sauce, and Kleinpeter Sweet Potato Pie Ice Cream.
