Trail Blog
January 16, 2012
Hot Item » The Foods of Mardi Gras
It’s Carnival in Louisiana, and celebrations are happening all around the state in preparation for the big day—Mardi Gras, or Fat Tuesday, on Feb. 21. Many folks associate Mardi Gras with beads and booze, but there’s so much more to this holiday, including some pretty delicious foods eaten in honor of the occasion.
Crowley native and host of “Cooking Up a Good Life” Chef Patrick Mould celebrates the holiday in Cajun Country, where Mardi Gras takes on a different personality from that of its New Orleans’ counterpart. We asked him to tell us more about his Mardi Gras memories and the food traditions associated with this time of year.
Q: What's your earliest memory of Mardi Gras?
A:Growing up in Crowley, Mardi Gras wasn't really that big of a deal. Don't get me wrong, I made a few trips to the Crescent City to participate in the debauchery that was Mardi Gras, but it didn't become an annual event for me until in my early 20s I discovered the Mamou Courir de Mardi Gras, the traditional horseback-driven celebration. The interesting thing about Mamou was they would clean the chickens as they came in from the riders, and then they would cook the gumbo in these cast iron kettles over a wood-burning fire—really the way it was done back before there was propane gas.
Q: What are your personal Mardi Gras food traditions? Is there a particular meal you eat each Fat Tuesday?
A:The Mardi Gras gumbo made from the ingredients gathered on the Courir. It is not possible for me to get through a Mardi Gras day without having a traditional chicken-and-smoked-sausage gumbo.
Q: In your neck of the woods, Cajun Country, gumbos are such an important part of the Courir de Mardi Gras tradition. Do you know how this tradition began? Do you participate in a courir de Mardi Gras in your area?
A:I have participated in many over the years as both a rider and just an observer. Some were public events; some were private events that just only a couple hundred people are invited to—those are fun and more intimate. I also participated in the filming of a Mardi Gras scene for the HBO Series "Tremé". It was a little weird to celebrate Mardi Gras twice in one year, especially since one was done during Lent. I'm still not sure if that one is going to count against me when standing at the Pearly Gates. Of course, the great thing about the Courir is that at each stop you are gathering ingredients for a gumbo to be prepared at the end of the ride and shared by the group. You might get onions at one stop or a bag of rice at another, but the real prize is a live chicken, which the riders chase down.
Q: You can't talk about the Mardi Gras season without mentioning king cake. Today, there are all kinds of flavors available. What's your favorite, and do you make your own or have a recommendation of where to buy a good one in your region?
A: As a chef, I know when to cook and when not to cook. There is no reason for me to prepare a king cake when there are so many places that specialize in king cakes. A few of my favorite spots to get king cakes in Lafayette are Poupart’s Bakery, Meche's Donuts and Keller's Bakery. Poupart’s also offers a traditional French-style king cake, which is a round puff pastry filled with almond marzipan. This cake should be heated in the oven and served warm. It’s a nice change of pace from the traditional Mardi Gras style.
Q: This is also the time of year for a boucherie. I know St. Martin Parish hosts a boucherie the Saturday before Mardi Gras each year. Will you share with our readers exactly what a boucherie is? Why is this the time of year for one?
A:Back in the days before refrigeration several farming families that lived close to each would gather and butcher a hog in order to have meat for the winter. Boucheries are best done in the winter because of the cold weather and there would be less chance of the meat spoiling over time. A variety of dishes and cuts of pork would come from a boucherie. When the pork would run out it would be time for another butchering. There are still boucheries going on in Acadiana. There are two in particular that I attend every year. One is open to the public and takes place at the Dewey Balfa Cajun and Creole Heritage Week that takes place at Chicot State Park in April.
